Showing posts with label bench. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bench. Show all posts
Tuesday, February 18, 2014
Work Bench Plans
Work Bench Plans
Also techniques, tips...
For More Information About Work Bench Plans Visit the Official Website !
Work Bench Plans | Woodworking
Work bench plans, material is a vital aspect youll want to consider in build your own bench. Your choice on this matter is furthermore varied. So, so that the right supplies, you need to think about the main purpose of this bench. Whether its primary purpose is carpentry or elsewhere as this will determine the kind of materials needed with the project.Beech is widely used material if you would like have heavy responsibility bench. Make sure you make use of the dry along with laminated kind for your bench. Other option includes birch solid timber, though it can be less durable than a beech wood. Next thing youll want to determine is the appropriate design and size of ones work bench. Yet again, the purpose that you intend to have built your bench plays a vital role in deciding the fitting measurement and design from the bench.
A very important matter for you to decide on could be the height of your bench. You alone may ascertain the height that makes it very convenient for you to work.
Aside coming from that, you may also choose to give the bench customized. It is possible to build some cabinets within the work area surface area. This will create a good storage for all you important resources along with tools youre going to need in working. Work bench plans, 16000 woodworking plans & projects. Easy to build, save time and money...
Work Bench Plans and Projects
Work bench plans, construction would be a whole lot easier in case you have excellent work bench plans to help you with the practice. Youre bound for making lesser mistakes that choice. As a effect, youll finish your project more fast.To choose a top-notch notch plan just for this project, might as effectively choose something that can be used over and once again for several other projects as well. Also, you require blueprints with superb working diagrams which means you eliminate the possible glitches chances are youll encounter when you might be building something. Work bench plans, woodworking plans for work bench, chairs, chests, & more
For More Information About Work Bench Plans Visit the Official Website !
Thursday, February 13, 2014
Miter Saw Bench Installation
Even with time off of work for Christmas, its been a busy week here in the Plotke household.
Luckily, I have managed to get some time in on the shop. Finally, my miter saw is in its home.
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Luckily, I have managed to get some time in on the shop. Finally, my miter saw is in its home.
A Dedicated Sharpening Bench part 5
Shaping the Feet and Finishing the Frame
In my last post I finished the leg to bench surface joinery and can now get into the rest of the mortise and tenon joinery to complete the frame work. As mentioned, the stock is 1 1/2" square so Im making 1/2" tenons and mortises. Its a work out chopping through the Ipe but my mortise chisel is up for the task. Remember I usually bore out the waste with my brace and bit but this wood wreaked havoc on my vintage augers and they only went in about 1/8". So lots of hammering and sawing and fitting the tenons. One nice thing about the 1 1/2" stock is the tenons are relatively small so after a few hours of banging around the basement Ill have the frame complete.
Chopping a Mortise
First thing is to establish the perimeter and I do this with some crisp knife lines. In this first shot you can see where Ive marked the overall size of the stretcher and then in the middle you can see my scribe lines...notice I marked off the center? This would have given me somewhere to register my auger bit but as mentioned, it didnt quite work out that way.
To begin, I place my mortise chisel at the far end of the mortise area, about 3/16 " away from the scribe line. I hammer down, taking small bites as I go. Im holding the chisel so the bevel side is facing my body and work my way down the mortise section. Im careful to stay inside the lines and not to hammer the chisel in too deep...yet!
Once I get to the end of the mortise section I stop just shy of the scribe line, again somewhere in the 1/8" range. I then go back and carefully pry out the small chips and get ready for a second, deeper pass. This time Im a little harder on the hammer and begin working my way down through the hardwood.
I continue on with this routine until I get close to my finished depth, checking after each pass. Once the mortise is at its finished depth Ill square up the ends. Place your body in front of the work so you can eye the chisel straight down, square into the opening. If you have trouble chopping square then place a square on your bench top, behind the work for reference. Another mortising trick you can try is marking the finished mortise depth on the back side of your chisel with a felt marker before you begin; that way you can make sure youre not chopping down too deep.
This process is repeated fifteen more times and when complete Ill begin to saw out the tenons. Refer back to my last post to see my set up for that.
When everything is looking good I go back and re-visit the foot components and shape them.
This being a workbench I could have easily left them square- not like anyone will be looking at them ~ ;) but Ive always liked the look of rounded feet on workbenches. I find it gives the bench a traditional look and there will be much less chance of me tripping on them while I stumble around the shop. My own workbench has square feet but I think that taking the extra 30 minutes or so to round them over adds a nice touch.
Shaping the Feet
To begin shaping the feet I draw out the arch and scribe the lines to determine the recess in the top of each foot. On my bench hook Ill make the first cross cut to establish the small fillet down and then Ill put the stock upright and rip down to remove the shoulder.
Next, I make an angled cut to remove most of the waste and with some rasps and files I fair out the curve.
As you know, my work shop is in my basement and the floor down there is far from flat! With that in mind I decide to remove the middle, underside of the feet to create four contact points where they meet the floor instead of the bench sitting on the entire length of the foot stock. This will make for a more stable bench.
To remove the material I make a series of cross cuts down to my desired depth which in this case is 1/4".
Then I grab my biggest, meanest Japanese chisel and start chopping the waste out between the saw kerfs. I take my time doing this part so I dont blow out any of the wood grain. Working from the inside of the foot I chop down a little over half way and then flip the board over and now working from the outside, show-side of each foot to complete the cut.
A quick going over with a sharp card scraper and its done. When I have the first foot shaped Ill use it as a pattern and trace the rest of the feet off of it. This will insure theyre all the same without having to measure every time. A bit of sanding and theyre good to go!
With the feet shaped and the joinery cut Ill do another dry fit and well call it a day. I begin by laying out the left front and back legs and insert the cross stretcher and foot. Ill mirror this assembly on my bench top with the right hand side as well.
Leaving the frames flat on the bench top Ill insert the cross stretchers.
Finally, Ill peg the right hand frame onto the end of the stretchers and stand the whole unit upright. Im happy with the results and my joints are looking pretty descent. In this final shot you can see how the work surface will slide down into the front slip joints and sit on the rear stub tenons. When I glue up the frame Ill drill and peg all of these joints for a bench thatll probably be around a lot longer than I will...My mortising is done for today but Ill add another cross stretcher at the top, rear of the frame that will serve dual pupose- itll have a dado running along its length to peg the drawer holders into as well as another pick-up point for the surface to sit on. This final cross stretcher will be made of oak because I want it to be at least 2" wide and as you know, the Ipe came pre-dimensioned at 1 1/2".
In the next post Ill cut the giant hole in the work surface top for the granite insert (the horror-the horror!) as well as make the final stretcher and some last minute details before I glue up the frame assembly and build the under carriage that will hold the granite in place...stay tuned.
Read More..
In my last post I finished the leg to bench surface joinery and can now get into the rest of the mortise and tenon joinery to complete the frame work. As mentioned, the stock is 1 1/2" square so Im making 1/2" tenons and mortises. Its a work out chopping through the Ipe but my mortise chisel is up for the task. Remember I usually bore out the waste with my brace and bit but this wood wreaked havoc on my vintage augers and they only went in about 1/8". So lots of hammering and sawing and fitting the tenons. One nice thing about the 1 1/2" stock is the tenons are relatively small so after a few hours of banging around the basement Ill have the frame complete.
Chopping a Mortise
First thing is to establish the perimeter and I do this with some crisp knife lines. In this first shot you can see where Ive marked the overall size of the stretcher and then in the middle you can see my scribe lines...notice I marked off the center? This would have given me somewhere to register my auger bit but as mentioned, it didnt quite work out that way.
To begin, I place my mortise chisel at the far end of the mortise area, about 3/16 " away from the scribe line. I hammer down, taking small bites as I go. Im holding the chisel so the bevel side is facing my body and work my way down the mortise section. Im careful to stay inside the lines and not to hammer the chisel in too deep...yet!
Once I get to the end of the mortise section I stop just shy of the scribe line, again somewhere in the 1/8" range. I then go back and carefully pry out the small chips and get ready for a second, deeper pass. This time Im a little harder on the hammer and begin working my way down through the hardwood.
I continue on with this routine until I get close to my finished depth, checking after each pass. Once the mortise is at its finished depth Ill square up the ends. Place your body in front of the work so you can eye the chisel straight down, square into the opening. If you have trouble chopping square then place a square on your bench top, behind the work for reference. Another mortising trick you can try is marking the finished mortise depth on the back side of your chisel with a felt marker before you begin; that way you can make sure youre not chopping down too deep.This process is repeated fifteen more times and when complete Ill begin to saw out the tenons. Refer back to my last post to see my set up for that.
When everything is looking good I go back and re-visit the foot components and shape them.This being a workbench I could have easily left them square- not like anyone will be looking at them ~ ;) but Ive always liked the look of rounded feet on workbenches. I find it gives the bench a traditional look and there will be much less chance of me tripping on them while I stumble around the shop. My own workbench has square feet but I think that taking the extra 30 minutes or so to round them over adds a nice touch.
Shaping the Feet
To begin shaping the feet I draw out the arch and scribe the lines to determine the recess in the top of each foot. On my bench hook Ill make the first cross cut to establish the small fillet down and then Ill put the stock upright and rip down to remove the shoulder.
Next, I make an angled cut to remove most of the waste and with some rasps and files I fair out the curve.
As you know, my work shop is in my basement and the floor down there is far from flat! With that in mind I decide to remove the middle, underside of the feet to create four contact points where they meet the floor instead of the bench sitting on the entire length of the foot stock. This will make for a more stable bench.
To remove the material I make a series of cross cuts down to my desired depth which in this case is 1/4".
Then I grab my biggest, meanest Japanese chisel and start chopping the waste out between the saw kerfs. I take my time doing this part so I dont blow out any of the wood grain. Working from the inside of the foot I chop down a little over half way and then flip the board over and now working from the outside, show-side of each foot to complete the cut.
A quick going over with a sharp card scraper and its done. When I have the first foot shaped Ill use it as a pattern and trace the rest of the feet off of it. This will insure theyre all the same without having to measure every time. A bit of sanding and theyre good to go!
With the feet shaped and the joinery cut Ill do another dry fit and well call it a day. I begin by laying out the left front and back legs and insert the cross stretcher and foot. Ill mirror this assembly on my bench top with the right hand side as well.
Leaving the frames flat on the bench top Ill insert the cross stretchers.
Finally, Ill peg the right hand frame onto the end of the stretchers and stand the whole unit upright. Im happy with the results and my joints are looking pretty descent. In this final shot you can see how the work surface will slide down into the front slip joints and sit on the rear stub tenons. When I glue up the frame Ill drill and peg all of these joints for a bench thatll probably be around a lot longer than I will...My mortising is done for today but Ill add another cross stretcher at the top, rear of the frame that will serve dual pupose- itll have a dado running along its length to peg the drawer holders into as well as another pick-up point for the surface to sit on. This final cross stretcher will be made of oak because I want it to be at least 2" wide and as you know, the Ipe came pre-dimensioned at 1 1/2".
In the next post Ill cut the giant hole in the work surface top for the granite insert (the horror-the horror!) as well as make the final stretcher and some last minute details before I glue up the frame assembly and build the under carriage that will hold the granite in place...stay tuned.
Monday, February 10, 2014
Seed Bench
Another quick and dirty project...and still distracted by the gardening bug.
We needed a small bench on which to germinate our seeds indoors and then later put outdoors as the weather warms up. I certainly wasnt going to pay the ridiculous garden center prices, especially on something that might exposed to the weather!
So ...
An afternoons work, a handful of basic tools, an old broken pallet and some pieces of recycled wood from the dump for the legs and a £1.35 bag of screws later...
Our new seed propagation bench was born.
These are the tools used, a square, pencil, gimlet (i love gimlets), screwdriver, chisels and a small saw.
Its not built to last a lifetime and its not pretty ... but, Its functional, almost free and it was a great way to spend an afternoon!
Broken and discarded pallets can be a readily available and free useful source of wood, so keep your eye out for them!
Tuesday, January 28, 2014
Work Bench Repair
As mentioned previously, my poor little bench recently decided to give up the ghost and collapse on me.
Until, I get round to building a proper bench, I have decided to make some improvements / repairs so I can at least carry on working wood. Its been ages since I have actually built anything useful!....
Anyway, the first thing to do was to lower the bench height by a good few inches. I have always found it hard to get some weight squarely over the plane and pushing sideways rather than downwards increases the lateral forces being exerted on the poor little bench frame therefore increasing the racking.
The bench felt quite a bit more stable immediately the legs were shortened. Next, add some bracing...
I had some pieces of wood that were perfect for the job!
With the four braces added and reduced height, I could really feel the bench frame start to stiffen up.
One of the biggest annoyances with this beginners bench has been work holding. All the dog holes are some stupid small size (~ 15mm) and not the normal 3/4" (19mm). Even if they were the correct size, the bench top is not thick enough to use holdfasts or hold downs. Also, even without the drawer on the front face of the bench, the bench top skirt made clamping almost impossible. I decided to put in some blocking underneath the bench to thicken it up and bring it closer the the thickness of the bench top skirt.
The first job was to rip and glue up some timber to form a panel of the correct width. It only had to be flat(ish) on the side that was to be glued and vaguely square as it was not going to be seen - Its a workbench not a piece of furniture.
This panel, was then both glued and screwed to the underside of the bench top making the bench top now a good 2" (50mm) thick.
I used counter sunk screws from the bench top down into the blocking panel and also reused the screw holes that used to hold the draw rails on the front edge to secure the panel.
Lastly, with the timber I had left, I added a large brace across the front of the bench, this is in line with the bench top edge, so could be useful for planning the edges of large boards such as table tops.
With the thicker bench top and no drawer in the way, I can now easily use F-Clamps to clamp work on the front face of the bench and the whole bench feels a lot more secure.
I am not expecting miracles from these quick and dirty additions, but the bench is definitely better than it was. I will get round to re-drilling the dog holes and maybe get some Veritas Wonder Dogs and Hold Fasts for it, as although quite pricey, they could be reused on a new bench in the future. Maybe build a Moxon style bench vice?
At least I have a working bench again...for now anyway!
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